Fast Fashion and the Environment’s Slow Death
The fashion industry is a global economic powerhouse. In 2021, the textile market was estimated as a 1.7 trillion dollar industry, employing 3.45 billion people worldwide (Fashion United, 2022). In this pronounced sector of the world economy, the phenomenon of fast fashion has exploded. Fast fashion focuses on producing trending clothing using cheap materials. The “fast” aspect refers to the production, sale, delivery, and use of clothing and other textiles, satisfying consumer demand for desirable styles while selling products at low prices (Crumbie, 2021). Examples of companies that promote fast fashion include Zara, Forever 21, H&M, and countless other brands (Hayes, 2022). While low prices, trendy outfits, and a seemingly-unlimited stock lure shoppers to these brands, they hide a dark truth. Fast fashion may stimulate the global economy through rocketing sales and employment, but the environment pays a dire price.
The textile industry is poisoning the earth through its manufacturing process. With increased demand for clothing, fast fashion stimulates the industry’s pollution on a global scale. Specifically, textile factories are responsible for introducing harmful chemicals into waterways through wastewater disposal, as the industry accounts for 20% of the world’s produced wastewater (DW Documentary, 2020). Bangladesh, a vanguard of textile exports, experiences the consequences of water pollution firsthand. Synthetic chemicals and dyes are used in garment production at textile manufacturing sites. Once the clothes are produced, wastewater containing dyes is emptied into local waterways, as it is the cheapest and most convenient mode of waste disposal (Regan, 2020). In a video produced by DW Documentary (2020), gruesome footage reveals discolored, odorous, factory wastewater emptying directly into Dhaka rivers. The World Bank identified 72 types of toxic chemicals produced from dyeing clothing, which accumulate in lakes and rivers, causing irreversible damage to humans and the environment alike (Regan, 2020). The toxic chemicals eventually become so concentrated in these aquatic ecosystems that plant photosynthesis is disrupted as light cannot penetrate through the water’s surface; inhabitant organisms are then deprived of oxygen (Regan, 2020). Additionally, organisms are exposed to heavy metals such as mercury (IamRenew, 2019), which can bioaccumulate and subsequently biomagnify throughout the food chain, eventually reaching our dinner plates (Government of Canada, 2013). Over 4,000 fishermen who fish the Dhaleshwari River, located in Bangladesh, complain that they are unable to sustain their livelihood due to the rapid decrease of fish. In addition, the river can no longer be used for crops, irrigation, or a reliable water source for the local public due to the presence of textile plants (DW Documentary, 2020). As illustrated by one of the leading fashion manufacturers of the word, the impacts of water pollution from textile factories are extensive and pernicious.
Fast fashion’s pollution footprint extends beyond waterways, as increased carbon dioxide levels burden the atmosphere. The textile industry contributes 1.2 billion tons of CO₂ per year through the production of clothing items (Chinasamy, 2019), comprising 10% of global carbon emissions (Smith, 2021). It’s hard to believe that CO₂ emissions produced by an H&M sweater rival second in the world to the oil industry in CO₂ contributions. Emissions stem from the sourcing of synthetic fibers like polyester, to the actual production of garments in factories, to the distribution of goods, to their inevitable accumulation in landfills as fast fashion has consumers cleaning out their closets to make space for trendier products (Chinasamy, 2019). Air pollution is a serious consequence of fast fashion and, unfortunately, remains unregulated as almost every part of the garment process contributes to the industry’s substantial footprint. The threats of global warming and expedited climate change loom as greenhouse gas emissions increase.
Evident through the byproducts of water and air pollution, fast fashion generates undesirable consequences through its production process. Another way the clothing industry proves detrimental to environmental health is through the unparalleled use of natural resources. Where most garments are made from polyester or cotton, there seem to be dismal options for resource-conscious manufacturing. For instance, polyester is derived from oil, promoting the exploitation of fossil fuels, while cotton requires immense amounts of pesticides and water (Smith, 2021). Cotton, the most prevalent material, demands 7,000-29,000 liters of water per kilogram of raw cotton, and that’s just the cultivation process (Mogavero, 2020). Once water is extracted from local sources that may take years to replenish, even more is required to create the article of clothing. Specifically, 1 kilogram of fiber demands 100-150 liters of water (Mogavero 2020). To contextualize the heinous use of water, researchers compare the fashion industry’s abuse of natural resources and international water insecurity to paint a vivid, terrifying picture. On average, it takes about 2,700 liters of water to produce a cotton t-shirt. This same quantity of water could provide drinking water for one individual for roughly 900 days, meanwhile 2.7 billion people worldwide do not have water security (Mogavero, 2020).
Fast fashion manifests environmental challenges and perpetuates human inequities by exploiting natural resources such as water.
Lastly, the allocation of environmental injustice is one of the greatest threats of fast fashion. Environmental injustice describes the disproportionate burden of environmental consequences that confront a group of people, often targeting marginalized groups (Maantay, 2002, 161). Fast fashion promotes environmental injustice as the clothing industry creates localized environmental costs for people and workers in close proximity to textile factories. The extent of environmental injustice can be analyzed by looking at low and middle-income countries (LMICs) where many of these factory hubs are located, as the economy primarily depends upon these states to keep up with the dynamic demand of shifting trends and cheap apparel. In fact, 90% of clothing worldwide is produced in these countries (Bick et al., 2018). In LMICs, such as Bangladesh, communities that foster textile factories are often under-resourced with low-income, low-wage, female workers (Bick et al., 2018). These employees and the surrounding communities bear the greatest cost of the fast fashion industry in their daily lives. They face tremendous work hazards, as the outsourcing of production to LMICs often lacks strict management and organization. Dangers range from environmental challenges, like contaminated breathing air, to minimal physical safety, exemplified by the collapse of Rana Plaza, a Dhaka garment factory, in 2013 (DW Documentary, 2020). Economic productivity often takes priority over environmental health with costs that are unequally paid, typically by female workers of low socioeconomic status in factory regions.
The textile industry is ruthless, and modern fast fashion intensifies its ramifications. Now that the hidden truth about fast fashion is uncovered, there are tangible steps necessary for consumers and producers that may mitigate the overwhelming environmental challenges the industry poses. From a consumer side, we can combat fast fashion evils by becoming knowledgeable and conscious of the products we buy. It is the consumer's responsibility to be educated by understanding where clothes are sourced and available sustainable alternatives (such as thrift stores or purchasing second-hand items). To achieve this goal, consumers should consult brand sources to determine the level of company transparency, selecting stores that embody sustainable and ethical practices (Earth Day, 2022). However, consumers must stay vigilant for green-washing, a practice used by companies that portray the impression of environmentalism, when in reality, not much is known about the impact of their practices and validity of their claims (Kerner, 2022). Brands will slap terms onto products like “eco-friendly” or “good for the environment” without providing any evidence to substantiate their claims of how the product is benefiting the environment (Kerner, 2022). To avoid green-washing tactics, consumers should be diligent when uncovering the truth about their clothing by researching products and their manufacturers. On the other hand, the producer level requires a form of institutional change in order to address the pertinent issues associated with fast fashion effectively. Producers should be held to higher standards and greater accountability for ensuring environmental protection in garment production. Some scholars believe that the best mechanism to enhance corporate responsibility is through government regulation. For instance, bills, such as The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act proposed by legislators in New York, would legally require large businesses to commit to sustainable practices and embody transparency. In particular, this act is geared toward supply chain mapping and the enforced release of critical information surrounding ethical and sustainable practices (Hudson et al., 2022). Although the bill has yet to be passed, it offers a promising framework for future legislation that can tackle the environmental costs of fast fashion.
Human and environmental health will erode if fast fashion persists as a contributor to the global economy. Collective action is required to affect change: consumers, producers, and governments must be held accountable for the fashion industry’s disastrous consequences. So, the next time Zara has a sale on cotton tees or Shein releases a new fall line, remember that the real cost of fast fashion clothing items extends far beyond the cheap numbers printed on their price tags.
References
“Bangladesh's Polluted Waters: Rivers Dying Due to Dyeing.” IamRenew, July 2, 2019. https://www.iamrenew.com/environment/bangladeshs-polluted-waters-rivers-dying-due-to-dyeing/.
Bick, Rachel, Erika Halsey, and Christine C. Ekenga. “The Global Environmental Injustice of Fast Fashion.” Environmental Health 17, no. 1 (December 27, 2018). https://doi.org/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7.
Chinasamy, Jasmine. “London Fashion Week: Fast Facts about Fast Fashion.” Unearthed. Greenpeace, September 12, 2019. https://unearthed.greenpeace.org/2019/09/12/fast-facts-about-fast-fashion/.
The Clothes We Wear. YouTube. DW Documentary, 2020. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-64wZkdPRew.
Crumbie, Alex. “What Is Fast Fashion and Why Is It a Problem?” Ethical Consumer. Ethical Consumer Research Association Ltd, October 5, 2021. https://www.ethicalconsumer.org/fashion-clothing/what-fast-fashion-why-it-problem.
“Fashion for the Earth.” Earth Day, April 21, 2022. https://www.earthday.org/campaign/sustainable-fashion/?gclid=CjwKCAjw7eSZBhB8EiwA60kCW0ZTiqDGtSB2ot1wtHiAH5crxv_uMKVLn-oQjW8ItWTxBhkwAqIFfxoC9G0QAvD_BwE.
“Global Fashion Industry Statistics.” Fashion United. Fashion United Group, 2022. https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics.
Hayes, Adam. “What Is Fast Fashion?” Investopedia. Dotdash Meredith , October 6, 2022. https://www.investopedia.com/terms/f/fast-fashion.asp#:~:text=Major%20players%20in%20the%20fast,the%20actual%20production%20of%20clothing.
Hudson, Rachel Tarko, Alyssa M. Sones, and Dhara Shah. “New York Fashion Sustainability Act: Now In Committee.” The National Law Review, April 29, 2022. https://www.natlawreview.com/article/new-york-fashion-sustainability-act-now-committee#:~:text=The%20New%20York%20Fashion%20Sustainability,business%20in%20New%20York%3B%20and.
Kerner, Sean Michael. “What Is Greenwashing?” WhatIs.com. TechTarget, September 22, 2022. https://www.techtarget.com/whatis/definition/greenwashing#:~:text=Greenwashing%20is%20a%20term%20used,service%20has%20on%20the%20environment.
Maantay, Juliana. “Mapping Environmental Injustices: Pitfalls and Potential of Geographic Information Systems in Assessing Environmental Health and Equity.” Environmental Health Perspectives 110, no. Supplement 2 (April 2002): 161–71. https://doi.org/10.1289/ehp.02110s2161.
“Mercury in the Food Chain.” Canada.ca. Government of Canada, July 9, 2013. https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/pollutants/mercury-environment/health-concerns/food-chain.html.
Mogavero, Taylor. “Clothed in Conservation: Fashion & Water.” Sustainable Campus. Florida State University , April 16, 2020. https://sustainablecampus.fsu.edu/blog/clothed-conservation-fashion-water.
Regan, Helen. “Asian Rivers Are Turning Black. And Our Colorful Closets Are to Blame.” CNN. Cable News Network, September 29, 2020. https://www.cnn.com/style/article/dyeing-pollution-fashion-intl-hnk-dst-sept/index.html.
Smith, Delilah. “Fast Fashion's Environmental Impact: The True Price of Trendiness.” Good On You. Good On You , April 20, 2021. https://goodonyou.eco/fast-fashions-environmental-impact/.